When it comes to the teething troubles that almost invariably plague new ventures, sweet-natured reviewers such as myself lean towards the charitable. Aware of the technical difficulties, and sensing any sign of good intentions and improvement to come, we pull our punches. But when those early dental difficulties suggest the root canal-tormented love child of Shane MacGowan and Esther Rantzen after a tasting session at the spinach farm, what's a chap to do?
In so many regards is Zilli Green a total shocker that it's hard to know where to begin. So let's start at the very beginning (a very good place to start) by observing that in choosing Valentine's Day for its opening, the TV chef Aldo Zilli showed a gift for savage irony. Half as romantic as genital warts, this is the ideal destination joint for anyone planning to surprise their beloved next 14 February with divorce papers and the news that the locks have already been changed.
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